Sunday 5 January 2014

Post #3: Defence Colony - our neighborhood in Delhi

We're living in Defence Colony, an upscale enclave in South Delhi, about 6 miles from the city center with lots and lots of traditional India within 4-5 blocks.  The neighborhood was originally developed for defense workers -- it's relatively common in Delhi to have neighborhoods for particular workers.  Yesterday, we went by a neighborhood expressly for central government workers and their families, and last week we walked past Police Colony. No idea yet how these specific neighborhood associations were instituted.

A "colony" is a neighborhood usually broken up into a half dozen "blocks" with several gated entrances. Each block makes up about 15-20 city blocks. Most gates are supposed to be closed from 10 pm-8am  to provide a modicum of security. The reality is slightly different. The colonies are not just for the rich. Even many traditional neighborhoods have blocks and gates. it would be really interesting to learn more about the neighborhood associations in the very poor areas, but now we know nothing.  Inside of the colonies, the intensity of the Indian urban scene tends to melt away a bit. A few parks, fewer horns, a semblance of calm. What a difference from the commercial street scene. Across the street from us is one of the neighborhood corner stores which has a little of everything in the way of dry goods plus dairy products which are kept in a coolish frig. Thankfully the turn over is high. Fruits and vegetables are hawked in the morning from a cart. We originally thought that calls for vegetables were calls to prayer.

These shots below were all taken and around our Defence Colony community:

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Cows everywhere, of course. We ran into at least a dozen cows on our half hour walk this AM.  Folks provide them with some food and care as they casually walk the streets. This morning, while walking the food market, someone pushed Ken hard from behind; it turned out to be a cow on her way to a pile of greens put out by one of the the vendors. No beef or pork on menus to keep everyone happy.


Mass transit beyond busses and metro in many forms:  the most popular are rick's and auto-ricks.  Everyone seems to use them for general transportation. They are everywhere. A mile ride for us on the auto-rick is less than a buck, and it's about half that price for the rick. And that's tourist prices, for sure. It's pretty wild to be on a highway in either of these vehicles.




There are three local markets within a few blocks. One caters to the growing ex-pat community but even here most of the shops and restaurants cater to the wider community as well. The other two markets are fully local. You want an iron, or tomatoes, or pink rubber bands, or a sari, or a live chicken, or spices, or fried somethings, or car parts or clothing repairs -- or whatever the heck you might need? Go to the local market. Lots of tiny stands, tiny shops, and tiny Hindu temples. And scads of pedestrians, ricks, auto-ricks, motorcycles, and an occasional car or truck. Dogs are everywhere and generally ignored and sometimes fed.  Of course, also piles and piles of waste in many forms everywhere -- and smog almost as bad as China. Incessant honking of horns. Hustle bustle everywhere. Welcome to the urban Indian scene.












2 comments:

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  2. How long would it take for an order of lamb dhansak, dal, naan bread, a side of basmati rice, and a large mango juice-- 821 Cinderellla Court, Decatur, GA?

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